After hours of searching, endless nerves and anticipation, I have finally settled into my homestay. I'm living with a family in the neighborhood Belgrano, which is an upper-middle class area. The family includes Adriana (mom), Carmelo (dad), three daughters, and Donatella (the dog). Also living here are a Venezuelan student and two American girls...yes, many people, but its a big house with room for everyone. My room is cute, spacious and even has a balcony overlooking the cobblestoned streets outside. Dinner is every night at 9:30, and the food is delicious. Last night we ate asado (argentine steak), papas (potatos), y ensalada (salad). For dessert we had flan (its similar to a custard with a dulce de leche top). The family is warm and friendly - they really go out of their way to make me feel at home.
Mi familia argentina (and my cousin)
Now I'm sure you are all anxious to hear about Argentina. Buenos Aires is a cosmopolitan city - it looks like a mix between New York City and Paris. The result is a beautiful city, full of European and Latin contrasts. There is a popular saying here, "Argentines are Italians, educated by the British, who speak Spanish, and aspire to be French." I think this is a perfect way to describe them. The majority of the people here immigrated from Europe, mainly Spain and Italy. When Buenos Aires was being built, the goal was to design a European city in South America.
The past week has been interesting because my mom, Nana and cousin decided to come for a vacation. Last Sunday Mom and I spent the day at the Feria de Recoleta, which is an outdoor market with several local vendors selling jewelry, art, food, etc. Monday we went to the Basicila Nuestra Sra. Pilar and the Recoleta Cemetary, which is where Evita Peron is buried, along with many other notable figures from wealthy Argentine families. This cemetary is oddly beautiful. Its small narrow paths are lined with oppulent graves, some of which are ardorned with gold and one that is equipped with an elevator! However, his was not Evita's orignal resting place; originally her body was taken out of the country. Once people started demanding she be brought back and buried in Recoleta, the wealthy families threatened to sell their plots and move their deceased family members to other cemetaries. They did not like Evita because she suscribed to the "take from the rich and give to the poor" philosophy and was born to a lower class family. In the end a nice man gave the plot he'd bought for himself as a present for Evita.
On Wednesday we went on a tour so my family could get to know BsAs better. One of the places that I enjoyed the most was the Plaza de Mayo, which is probably the most important plaza in the city. This is where the mothers and grandmothers of the disappeared gather each Wednesday to protest (its a conspiracy - thousands of people just "disappeared" during the 1970s). This is also where many other protests take place since its the political center of the city. It is surrounded by the Casa Rosada (the Pink House - similar to our White House), the Catedral Metropolitania (Metropolitan Cathedral), the Cabildo, and other governmental buildings. Another interesting neighborhood we visited was La Boca, which houses the fútbol stadium (La Bombonera) for Boca Juniors. This is also where the tango was born. And yes, there were people tango-ing in the street! This is a working class area where the Italian immigrants lived when they first arrived - its characterized by its brightly painted buildings.
A French inspired building in Plaza de Mayo
Plaza de San Martin (the general who liberated Argentina and several other countries in SA)
Along 9 de Julio, a large avenue in BsAs.
La Casa Rosada
Plaza de Mayo y la Catedral Metropolitana
La Boca
Friday we went to Cafe Tortoni to see a tango show and dinner. This was the first cafe in Buenos Aires and was designed by a French architect. Tortoni is important because its where many famous artists and writers, such as Jorge Borges, would frequent. Although the food was forgetable, I loved the cafe. It has been very well perserved (or very well refurbished, which ever one you'd like to believe). Walking through the doors is as if you're leaving the busy 21st century and going back into the 1800's. The cafe is beautiful - the walls are adorned with pictures and paintings by its most famous attendees, and the ceiling boasts meticulously crafted stained glass windows. And of course, the tango show was amazing: filled with passion and a certain nostalgia for the past. I will take tango lessons, but I'm sure I will never be able to dance like that!
Inside the lovely Cafe Tortoni
Cameras were prohibited during the show, but I snuck a picture!
Besitos, B.
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