Argentina means so much to me for so many different reasons. On my last night in Argentina, I still can't believe the time has come to say goodbye. It's been nearly six months since I arrived, but somehow that doesn't seem like long enough. Of course there are aspects that I am more than happy to say ciao to such as dog poop on the sidewalks, the endless corruption and UCA. But the good far outweights the bad, and is what will stay with me long after the other memories fade. Argentina has helped me grow, forced me to step out of my comfort zone, learn and explore, meet interesting people and to have the most wonderful experiences of my life. Each day is not only a new day, but a good day too. Because as Carmelo says "La vida es linda...y mas en Argentina."
I have to end this post now because I'm writing this with tears in my eyes. Te amo, Argentina. Goodbye.
Besitos,
B
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Afternoon Tea
The Alvear Palace was constructed in 1932 during Argentina's golden age and is the embodiment of the country's European infatuation. Located in the prestigious Recoleta barrio, the Alvear lies on a tree lined avenue and claims Hermes, Louis Vuitton and Giorgio Armani as its closest neighbors. The architecture is classic French, with doors opening into a mixture of elegance, opulence and grandeour. Entricately tiled floors, towering corinthian columns and lavish Victorian furniture are the perfect compliment to Argentina's high society. And with rooms starting at $800 USD per night, you can be sure that this palace truly is fit for a king.
Inside Alvear Palace
Today Avril, Julia and I went to Alvear Palace for one of my favorite traditions: afternoon tea. It was held in the Jardin d´Hiver, which is a beautiful indoor garden. The service was wonderful and the afternoon tea was lovely. We elected the champagne tea, which consisted of many of the usuals: tea, scones, a variety of finger sandwiches and pasteries; in addition to decadent desserts, champagne and truffles. After a relaxing few hours, we admired the hotel a bit more before leaving the palace and stepping back into Buenos Aires.
The Jardin d'Hiver
Inside Alvear Palace
Today Avril, Julia and I went to Alvear Palace for one of my favorite traditions: afternoon tea. It was held in the Jardin d´Hiver, which is a beautiful indoor garden. The service was wonderful and the afternoon tea was lovely. We elected the champagne tea, which consisted of many of the usuals: tea, scones, a variety of finger sandwiches and pasteries; in addition to decadent desserts, champagne and truffles. After a relaxing few hours, we admired the hotel a bit more before leaving the palace and stepping back into Buenos Aires.
The Jardin d'Hiver
Saturday, November 29, 2008
Springtime in Buenos Aires
Springtime in Buenos Aires is one of a kind. The city transforms from classic in gray to a beautiful urban metropolis, framed by lush trees and lavendar flowers.
After months of the sun setting even before I left class and pushing through biting weather, the longer and warmer days have brought a new list of activities. Mid-mornings are spent reading over espresso and pasteries at an outdoor cafe in Belgrano R. Lazy days are spent in the various parks and plazas around the city, such as my personal favorites San Martin and Jardin Botanico. A free afternoon may mean visiting an interesting museum, such as Museo Evita, which delves into the woman behind the icon. And nights spent searching for the perfect drink in Palermo to cool the day's heat.
Whatever is on the day's itinerary is made sweeter, if not by the delicious ice cream, then by the thought that its springtime in BsAs.
Jardin Botanico
After months of the sun setting even before I left class and pushing through biting weather, the longer and warmer days have brought a new list of activities. Mid-mornings are spent reading over espresso and pasteries at an outdoor cafe in Belgrano R. Lazy days are spent in the various parks and plazas around the city, such as my personal favorites San Martin and Jardin Botanico. A free afternoon may mean visiting an interesting museum, such as Museo Evita, which delves into the woman behind the icon. And nights spent searching for the perfect drink in Palermo to cool the day's heat.
Whatever is on the day's itinerary is made sweeter, if not by the delicious ice cream, then by the thought that its springtime in BsAs.
Jardin Botanico
Wednesday, November 26, 2008
Bajo Flores
Buenos Aires is a city that allows many of its inhabitants to lead a rather fabulous life, should they have the means for it. Whether its bar hopping in trendy Palmero SoHo or dining in the exclusive restaraunts in river side Puerto Madero, the city seems to offer an infinite number of options that suite my tastes just fine. With a hint of European class and a dash of latin passion, I never cease to find a good time, with a more than humble price tag.
But after living here for five months, I was more than acutely aware that the Buenos Aires I know and love, doesn't always translate. My daily reality couldn't be further from the truth for a sizeable segment of the population. I've written before about the extreme poverty that lies in South America (see Peru post). And today, I stepped into what I'd only seen from a distance - the other side of Buenos Aires.
My roommate Julia is working here on an internship to help teach the children who live in the villas (shanty towns). Each week she and her co-workers search for educational toys and snacks for the kids and then make the hour and a half trek to visit and teach them. Finally, with the semester having just ended, I was able to tag along and help out.
The long bus ride provided the beginning of my internal dialogue of observations. The further we rode away from our upper-middle class barrio, the change in the passengers' demographic became obvious. We boarded the bus, surrounded by the descendents of European immigrants. As we drove further, they got off one by one, and were replaced with indigenous immigrants from Peru, Bolivia and Northern Argentina. The bus stopped outside of a villa, which looked like a scene out of Ciudad de Dios (City of God, a movie about life in the villas of Rio de Jainero). We entered Bajo Flores, and were hit with a mixture of heat, dust and the scent of erroding sewer systems.
The houses in the villas are constructed by their residents out of brick, cement and any scraps found lying in the trash. Most roofs are a single sheet of metal, held up by thin wooden sticks. Each house had several common characteristics: a hole in the wall will serve as the family's window; a floor without a roof or wall becomes the house's balcony; and clothing lines filled with tattered garments blew in the breeze. I guess what surprised me most, is that each villa is literally its own barrio. The unpaved streets were lined with fruit stands, auto shops, faulty sewer systems, grocery stores and every other business imaginable. These villas function as their own towns, a world apart from Buenos Aires.
We walked into one of the red brick buildings which served as an educational center to expand upon what the children learned in school. Once a month, a meeting is held for the parents about how they can aid in their children's education, while the kids are given educational games to play. The parents, or rather the mothers, sat in a circle in the main room, which is lit by a single bulb dangling from the ceiling. Several electric wires are exposed around the room, and the dismal light shines on the dirt floor. There was no door and graffiti tainted one wall.
Out the back door and across the courtyard lies the building where the children play and learn. We sat with them and drew pictures throughout the meeting. The focus of this project was to learn colors. So each time a child picked up a new crayon we would ask them the name of the color and to explain what they were drawing. It broke my heart to hear kindergarten aged children misprnounce the color names, fail to identify the primary colors or fail to speak at all, because silence was the only language they could speak.
I sat with them, gave them cookies and drew with them, stopping only too often to teach them how to pronounce "rojo" or "rosa," syllable by syllable in their own native language. While half of them colored pictures of ninos, casitas and familias the others played in the courtyard, which was a dusty square shadded by a tree and filled with garbage. The kids ran around playing with trash, broken wires and empty bottles.
After the meeting was over, we cleaned up as a man walked in. He wanted to find out when the next meeting was so he could attend and bring his kids. The volunteers, all women, were estatic that a man wanted to come to a meeting. This reality of the absence of men and broken families struck a chord and reminded me of a similar problem in our own bad neighborhoods. It always seems to be the women who are the cornerstone of the family.
Walking through the dirt and trash ridden streets to find the bus stop, my mind reeled with thoughts of what I'd seen. Words cannot accurately describe the despair or the level of poverty I saw today. So I will skip trying to strike an emotional chord and just leave you with my observations, which hopefully paint a picture louder than words.
But after living here for five months, I was more than acutely aware that the Buenos Aires I know and love, doesn't always translate. My daily reality couldn't be further from the truth for a sizeable segment of the population. I've written before about the extreme poverty that lies in South America (see Peru post). And today, I stepped into what I'd only seen from a distance - the other side of Buenos Aires.
My roommate Julia is working here on an internship to help teach the children who live in the villas (shanty towns). Each week she and her co-workers search for educational toys and snacks for the kids and then make the hour and a half trek to visit and teach them. Finally, with the semester having just ended, I was able to tag along and help out.
The long bus ride provided the beginning of my internal dialogue of observations. The further we rode away from our upper-middle class barrio, the change in the passengers' demographic became obvious. We boarded the bus, surrounded by the descendents of European immigrants. As we drove further, they got off one by one, and were replaced with indigenous immigrants from Peru, Bolivia and Northern Argentina. The bus stopped outside of a villa, which looked like a scene out of Ciudad de Dios (City of God, a movie about life in the villas of Rio de Jainero). We entered Bajo Flores, and were hit with a mixture of heat, dust and the scent of erroding sewer systems.
The houses in the villas are constructed by their residents out of brick, cement and any scraps found lying in the trash. Most roofs are a single sheet of metal, held up by thin wooden sticks. Each house had several common characteristics: a hole in the wall will serve as the family's window; a floor without a roof or wall becomes the house's balcony; and clothing lines filled with tattered garments blew in the breeze. I guess what surprised me most, is that each villa is literally its own barrio. The unpaved streets were lined with fruit stands, auto shops, faulty sewer systems, grocery stores and every other business imaginable. These villas function as their own towns, a world apart from Buenos Aires.
We walked into one of the red brick buildings which served as an educational center to expand upon what the children learned in school. Once a month, a meeting is held for the parents about how they can aid in their children's education, while the kids are given educational games to play. The parents, or rather the mothers, sat in a circle in the main room, which is lit by a single bulb dangling from the ceiling. Several electric wires are exposed around the room, and the dismal light shines on the dirt floor. There was no door and graffiti tainted one wall.
Out the back door and across the courtyard lies the building where the children play and learn. We sat with them and drew pictures throughout the meeting. The focus of this project was to learn colors. So each time a child picked up a new crayon we would ask them the name of the color and to explain what they were drawing. It broke my heart to hear kindergarten aged children misprnounce the color names, fail to identify the primary colors or fail to speak at all, because silence was the only language they could speak.
I sat with them, gave them cookies and drew with them, stopping only too often to teach them how to pronounce "rojo" or "rosa," syllable by syllable in their own native language. While half of them colored pictures of ninos, casitas and familias the others played in the courtyard, which was a dusty square shadded by a tree and filled with garbage. The kids ran around playing with trash, broken wires and empty bottles.
After the meeting was over, we cleaned up as a man walked in. He wanted to find out when the next meeting was so he could attend and bring his kids. The volunteers, all women, were estatic that a man wanted to come to a meeting. This reality of the absence of men and broken families struck a chord and reminded me of a similar problem in our own bad neighborhoods. It always seems to be the women who are the cornerstone of the family.
Walking through the dirt and trash ridden streets to find the bus stop, my mind reeled with thoughts of what I'd seen. Words cannot accurately describe the despair or the level of poverty I saw today. So I will skip trying to strike an emotional chord and just leave you with my observations, which hopefully paint a picture louder than words.
Sunday, November 23, 2008
Dance like this...
Maybe I should be more embarassed than I am to admit that "Dirty Dancing Havana Nights" is one of my favorite movies. As the title hints, this movie is the latin version of the original. It takes place on the sandy beaches of a 1950's Cuba, and is filled with passion, music and of course, dancing. Whenever I watch this movie, I always think to myself longingly, I wish I could dance like this...
Recently I had the perfect opportunity to reinact my favorite guilty pleasure. A friend and I went to a concert featuring a Cuban salsa band that is known for being one of the best in the world. By the time we arrived, the band was already warming up, as were the other attendees: women twirling and moving seductively, while men took the lead but made no hesitation to shake their hips as well.
Seeing as we were the only attendees who didn't learn to salsa before we could walk, we opted to hit the bar first for some liquid courage. After a few drinks, we could no longer resist the lure of the dance floor. So fueled by a mojito haze, we decided to at least pretend we knew how to salsa. Inspired by the tropical beats and latin rhythms, we ended up putting on a good show, if I do say so myself.
Once the last song played and the haze wore off, I felt a little wistful. But at least I'd been able to step into a scene from Dirty Dancing Havana Nights, if only for one night.
Recently I had the perfect opportunity to reinact my favorite guilty pleasure. A friend and I went to a concert featuring a Cuban salsa band that is known for being one of the best in the world. By the time we arrived, the band was already warming up, as were the other attendees: women twirling and moving seductively, while men took the lead but made no hesitation to shake their hips as well.
Seeing as we were the only attendees who didn't learn to salsa before we could walk, we opted to hit the bar first for some liquid courage. After a few drinks, we could no longer resist the lure of the dance floor. So fueled by a mojito haze, we decided to at least pretend we knew how to salsa. Inspired by the tropical beats and latin rhythms, we ended up putting on a good show, if I do say so myself.
Once the last song played and the haze wore off, I felt a little wistful. But at least I'd been able to step into a scene from Dirty Dancing Havana Nights, if only for one night.
I'm still here
Hola a todas! I know, I've been a very bad blogger lately. But in my defense, as it turns out you actually have to STUDY abroad. I know, what a concept. The semester is coming to an end, and I've had to focus my attention elsewhere. But now, I'm back! And with some fun updates too :)
Besitos,
B
Besitos,
B
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Argentina es así
Oh Argentina, como te amo...BUT we've got to work on a little thing called corruption...
Today, like all Thursdays, waking up early to go to my internship was painful. I went through my normal routine without thinking, and left to catch the train. Walking and nodding to the beat of my ipod, I reached the train station and dug in my bag to find my...nothing. Seeing as my big vintage tote is filled with my life and all its necesities, I figured I'd just have to dig around and search a little deeper. When I came up empty handed again, I was pissed at myself for leaving my wallet in my room, because retrieving it would surely make me late. But after tearing through my messy room, I came to the realization I had fought so hard to deny: my wallet was stollen!
After retracing my steps from the day before it only made sense. The last time I saw my wallet was when I pulled it out on the colectivo (bus) to pay for my ticket home yesterday evening. I stuck my wallet back into my bag, closed it and held it tight to my side. It was rush hour as usual in Buenos Aires, which meant that becoming very friendly with your neighbor was all but unavoidable and the idea of personal space was almost laughable. So the many times someone bumped into me, touched me or assumed a rather compromising position, I thought nothing of it. However, one of those touches was when my wallet was stollen.
After cancelling all my cards and ordering new ones, its unfortunate that there is nothing else I can do. Call the police? They won't care - too busy being corrupt. Call the colectivo company to see if perhaps it was turned in - they won't really care either. What it comes down to is this: as much as I love Argentina, there are certain things that are undeniable. It is a corrupt country. Every day things go missing and bad things happen, but the majority are pardoned and never given a second thought. Accused of something you actually did? Don't worry, it probably won't interest the police, unless there's the chance they can receive a bribe. Where's the government in this mess of corruption? Well, let's just say the police had to have learned it somewhere.
I guess, at the end of the day, its best to just refrain from counting your losses, say "ciao!" to the matieral things and think...Argentina es así (that's Argentina).
Besitos, B.
Today, like all Thursdays, waking up early to go to my internship was painful. I went through my normal routine without thinking, and left to catch the train. Walking and nodding to the beat of my ipod, I reached the train station and dug in my bag to find my...nothing. Seeing as my big vintage tote is filled with my life and all its necesities, I figured I'd just have to dig around and search a little deeper. When I came up empty handed again, I was pissed at myself for leaving my wallet in my room, because retrieving it would surely make me late. But after tearing through my messy room, I came to the realization I had fought so hard to deny: my wallet was stollen!
After retracing my steps from the day before it only made sense. The last time I saw my wallet was when I pulled it out on the colectivo (bus) to pay for my ticket home yesterday evening. I stuck my wallet back into my bag, closed it and held it tight to my side. It was rush hour as usual in Buenos Aires, which meant that becoming very friendly with your neighbor was all but unavoidable and the idea of personal space was almost laughable. So the many times someone bumped into me, touched me or assumed a rather compromising position, I thought nothing of it. However, one of those touches was when my wallet was stollen.
After cancelling all my cards and ordering new ones, its unfortunate that there is nothing else I can do. Call the police? They won't care - too busy being corrupt. Call the colectivo company to see if perhaps it was turned in - they won't really care either. What it comes down to is this: as much as I love Argentina, there are certain things that are undeniable. It is a corrupt country. Every day things go missing and bad things happen, but the majority are pardoned and never given a second thought. Accused of something you actually did? Don't worry, it probably won't interest the police, unless there's the chance they can receive a bribe. Where's the government in this mess of corruption? Well, let's just say the police had to have learned it somewhere.
I guess, at the end of the day, its best to just refrain from counting your losses, say "ciao!" to the matieral things and think...Argentina es así (that's Argentina).
Besitos, B.
Sunday, October 26, 2008
Daddy Yankee concert
Continuing with the theme of latin music, I went to my first reggaeton concert Saturday night. Daddy Yankee, who hails from Puerto Rico, combines smooth latin rhythms with the flow of a rap lyricist. His songs range in content and also provide commentary on the social ills of the poor neighborhood he grew up in. He's been a fixture in the latin music scene for years; his talent and catchy songs such as "Rompe" and "Gasolina" have even crossed over to mainstream U.S. music charts.
Being a fan of his popular songs and latin music in general, I jumped at the chance attend a reggaeton concert while in Latin America. He gave a stellar performance that was energy packed thoughout. The video and lighting affects were flashy and entertaining, as were the back-up dancers. But the most impressive was when the "King of Improvisation" demonstrated extact how he'd earned his title (video below).
So, for your viewing pleasure, footage of the Daddy Yankee concert:
(I have to admit I'm not the BEST filmer, primarily bc I was trying to dance at the same time as filming)
"Rompe" during the concert
You have to admit, he does have skills (the good stuff comes in around 8 seconds into the video)
Besitos, B.
Being a fan of his popular songs and latin music in general, I jumped at the chance attend a reggaeton concert while in Latin America. He gave a stellar performance that was energy packed thoughout. The video and lighting affects were flashy and entertaining, as were the back-up dancers. But the most impressive was when the "King of Improvisation" demonstrated extact how he'd earned his title (video below).
So, for your viewing pleasure, footage of the Daddy Yankee concert:
(I have to admit I'm not the BEST filmer, primarily bc I was trying to dance at the same time as filming)
"Rompe" during the concert
You have to admit, he does have skills (the good stuff comes in around 8 seconds into the video)
Besitos, B.
Thursday, October 23, 2008
La Música Latina
To say that Buenos Aires is a city of contrasts would be an understatment. Everytime I think I have it all figured out, SOMETHING throws me off. A city of glamour and sophistication? Check. Until the homeless man decided to blow his nose on the wall of the subte (subway) this morning. A city that's making strides to reclaim it's former glory. Check. Until President Christina's picture on the news reminds me that she spends more money on plastic surgery than on her country. A European city lost in South America? Check - well, sort of...
For as European as Argentines aspire to be, there is one latin aspect they can't seem to deny: la música latina. Even the most seemingly "European" Argentine knows how to seductitively sway their hips when the right beat starts playing. Popular types of latin music include kumbia, cuarteto, salsa, bachata and reggaeton. My favorite is reggaeton, which claims Panamanian roots and has taken latin America and Argentina by storm. This mixture of latin, reggae and hip-hop is slightly irresistable, especially after a few cocktails ;)
Since I can't directly post the videos, here are the youtube links to what I'm listening to now:
1. "Si Alguna Vez," La Factoria (Panamá)
This colaborative effort made this THE hit in all the boliches. No matter how many times I hear it, I still love this song.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2MM3gVQt94
2. "Ahora es," Wisin y Yandel (Puerto Rico)
This duo has many songs that make me want to dance, but this one is my favorite. If you like this, definately check out their other songs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnyUgtoVcB4
3. "Mas que tu amigo," Marco Antonio Solis (México)
This is cuarteto, which I'm not usually a big fan of, but I like this one.
http://es.youtube.com/watch?v=9YIUA_6kMjA
4. "Oido por amor," Juanes (Colombia)
Clearly no list of latin music would be complete with my favorite Colombian singer (sorry, Shakira). This is Juanes' newest song.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN7oryNY4RY
¡Que disfruten! Besitos, B.
For as European as Argentines aspire to be, there is one latin aspect they can't seem to deny: la música latina. Even the most seemingly "European" Argentine knows how to seductitively sway their hips when the right beat starts playing. Popular types of latin music include kumbia, cuarteto, salsa, bachata and reggaeton. My favorite is reggaeton, which claims Panamanian roots and has taken latin America and Argentina by storm. This mixture of latin, reggae and hip-hop is slightly irresistable, especially after a few cocktails ;)
Since I can't directly post the videos, here are the youtube links to what I'm listening to now:
1. "Si Alguna Vez," La Factoria (Panamá)
This colaborative effort made this THE hit in all the boliches. No matter how many times I hear it, I still love this song.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2MM3gVQt94
2. "Ahora es," Wisin y Yandel (Puerto Rico)
This duo has many songs that make me want to dance, but this one is my favorite. If you like this, definately check out their other songs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnyUgtoVcB4
3. "Mas que tu amigo," Marco Antonio Solis (México)
This is cuarteto, which I'm not usually a big fan of, but I like this one.
http://es.youtube.com/watch?v=9YIUA_6kMjA
4. "Oido por amor," Juanes (Colombia)
Clearly no list of latin music would be complete with my favorite Colombian singer (sorry, Shakira). This is Juanes' newest song.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN7oryNY4RY
¡Que disfruten! Besitos, B.
Monday, October 20, 2008
Milión
Milión is one of those exclusive places - the kind that's so hip it doesn't even need a sign. The first time I went searching for it I passed by a few times before backtracking and looking closely at the address. I entered a French-inspired building and hesitantly walked down a dark hall before finding that I was in the right spot.
Located in Retiro, Milión is a renovated mansion that's been converted into one of Buenos Aires' hot spots. The first floor serves as a chic restaraunt, offering regional cuisine with mediterranean hints. A short walk upstairs and you'll find the bar and lounge. The lounge is dimly lit by candles, which illuminate an intimate room filled with antique furniture and coffee tables. In the next room, the bar is the center of attention, exuding a gloden glow through its stained glass top. The drink menu offers a variety of cocktails, including the classic and the innovative, which brings me to my new favorite: the frozen mojito. This slushy green drink comes in a sugar-rimmed glass and is so delicious that if you don't conciously pace yourself, brainfreezes will ensue. The bar also offers a variety of latin-enfused tapas for two.
Just beyond the bar and out the french doors lies a clever little secret: a patio and garden, which provide a quiet oasis amid the skyscrapers of the surrounding city. The ivy-covered walls, white lilies and shady trees make this an ideal spot to sip a cool drink for happy hour or for a late night out with friends.
Besitos, B.
Located in Retiro, Milión is a renovated mansion that's been converted into one of Buenos Aires' hot spots. The first floor serves as a chic restaraunt, offering regional cuisine with mediterranean hints. A short walk upstairs and you'll find the bar and lounge. The lounge is dimly lit by candles, which illuminate an intimate room filled with antique furniture and coffee tables. In the next room, the bar is the center of attention, exuding a gloden glow through its stained glass top. The drink menu offers a variety of cocktails, including the classic and the innovative, which brings me to my new favorite: the frozen mojito. This slushy green drink comes in a sugar-rimmed glass and is so delicious that if you don't conciously pace yourself, brainfreezes will ensue. The bar also offers a variety of latin-enfused tapas for two.
Just beyond the bar and out the french doors lies a clever little secret: a patio and garden, which provide a quiet oasis amid the skyscrapers of the surrounding city. The ivy-covered walls, white lilies and shady trees make this an ideal spot to sip a cool drink for happy hour or for a late night out with friends.
Besitos, B.
Sunday, October 19, 2008
River vs. Boca
Argentina is a country filled with passion: the sultry tango, a beautiful language and of course, fútbol. For Argentines, fútbol is part of their culture, a way of life and at the center of their hearts. In Buenos Aires there are two club teams - River Plate and Boca Juniors. One's allegiance depends heavily on their family and in which barrio they reside. The middle and upper class northern barrios support River, while the working class southern barrios support Boca. Most people don't have a say in which team they support because they are born either a River or a Boca fan. And switching teams is seen as a grevious offense, even creating rifts between families and friends. Although I'm not a big sports fan, attending a fútbol game in Argentina was as big of a priority for me as traveling. I wanted to see and feel first hand the type of passion and pride, which is something many Americans seem to lack. The perfect setting for this? El Superclasico River Plate vs. Boca Juniors.
After weeks of searching for tickets to the biggest game in Argentina, I had all but given up until my host parents suggested that I go to the game early and look for scalpers selling tickets. Last Sunday, Julia (German roomie), Avril and I arrived at la cancha de River (River stadium), where we were met by chaos: cue the Boca fans. The Boca team passed by in a bus and suddenly the fans began screaming "¡DALE BOCA!! ¡DALE BOCAAA!!" and rushed the street to greet their team. After the team passed and the initial enthusiam wore off, we wandered the streets while attempting to be as inconspicious to the policemen as possible. We spotted two sketchy men sitting on a stoop talking on cell phones and trying a little too hard to keep their cool: these were our guys. We bought the tickets for 250 pesos a pop - kind of expensive, until I saw we had some of the best seats in the stadium!
BUT I'm getting ahead of myself. Half the story was getting into the stadium! Saying that Argentines are fanatics when it comes to fútbol would be an understatement. Their games have garnered a reputation for being as dangerous as they are exciting. The deeply rooted rivalry that divides the city in half - and pits the working class against the wealthy - incites violence and fights when someone inevitably ends up as a the looser. The streets were lined with policemen wearing bullet-proof vests, helmuts and combat boots while carrying shields, batons and guns. I have a knack for being dramatic, but trust me, this is no dramatization. Mistakingly, we entered through the general public entrance which is where all the rowdy (or most loyal, depending on how you look at it) fans sit. We pushed through the crowd of yelling and sweaty men, while the police used their batons to keep everyone in place. Until (and this is SO Argentina) a police man saw us and said, "¡Ay pasan las mas lindas!" (let the prettiest girls pass). Then we were directed to the entrance for our seats, which were in much more laid-back section.
Inside the stadium we sat on the River side because the Boca section was small and reserved only for the visiting team. The River fans' social standing was clearly reflected in the number of yuppie Argentines present - women clad in pearls and designer sun glasses; and men sporting polos, khakis and cashmere sweaters. But even their well-kempt personas didn't hinder their die-hard allegiance to River. They jumped, they screamed, and they sang at the top of their lungs: "¡VAMOS, VAMOS RIVER PLATE! ¡VAMOS, VAMOS RIVER PLATE!" This was one of the...cleaner songs, to say the least. Other popular songs included terms of endearment for the other team such as "hijo de puta" (son of a bitch). And whether the fans were young, old, or anywhere in between, they made no hesitation to jump to their feet and yell, "¡Ay, Boludo! ¿Que haces?" (dumbass, what are you doing?) or - when things got really tough - "¡Concha tu madre!" (fuck your mom) to the field.
La Cancha
Footage of the crowd
The game
Right before the game started, adrenaline rushed through the stadium as each side tried to out do the other to be heard. Each team boasted live bands, balloons, streamers, and fog machines that blew smoke in their respective colors. Then finally, the game began! It was an intense game, with neither team having scored by half time. Even though we sat on the River side, I have to give credit where it's due - the Boca Juniors were very skilled; their intricate footwork, quick thinking and swift moves were quite impressive. At one point the goalie flipped backwards to keep the ball from going into the goal! And in the end, the Boca Juniors won El Superclasico.
After weeks of searching for tickets to the biggest game in Argentina, I had all but given up until my host parents suggested that I go to the game early and look for scalpers selling tickets. Last Sunday, Julia (German roomie), Avril and I arrived at la cancha de River (River stadium), where we were met by chaos: cue the Boca fans. The Boca team passed by in a bus and suddenly the fans began screaming "¡DALE BOCA!! ¡DALE BOCAAA!!" and rushed the street to greet their team. After the team passed and the initial enthusiam wore off, we wandered the streets while attempting to be as inconspicious to the policemen as possible. We spotted two sketchy men sitting on a stoop talking on cell phones and trying a little too hard to keep their cool: these were our guys. We bought the tickets for 250 pesos a pop - kind of expensive, until I saw we had some of the best seats in the stadium!
BUT I'm getting ahead of myself. Half the story was getting into the stadium! Saying that Argentines are fanatics when it comes to fútbol would be an understatement. Their games have garnered a reputation for being as dangerous as they are exciting. The deeply rooted rivalry that divides the city in half - and pits the working class against the wealthy - incites violence and fights when someone inevitably ends up as a the looser. The streets were lined with policemen wearing bullet-proof vests, helmuts and combat boots while carrying shields, batons and guns. I have a knack for being dramatic, but trust me, this is no dramatization. Mistakingly, we entered through the general public entrance which is where all the rowdy (or most loyal, depending on how you look at it) fans sit. We pushed through the crowd of yelling and sweaty men, while the police used their batons to keep everyone in place. Until (and this is SO Argentina) a police man saw us and said, "¡Ay pasan las mas lindas!" (let the prettiest girls pass). Then we were directed to the entrance for our seats, which were in much more laid-back section.
Inside the stadium we sat on the River side because the Boca section was small and reserved only for the visiting team. The River fans' social standing was clearly reflected in the number of yuppie Argentines present - women clad in pearls and designer sun glasses; and men sporting polos, khakis and cashmere sweaters. But even their well-kempt personas didn't hinder their die-hard allegiance to River. They jumped, they screamed, and they sang at the top of their lungs: "¡VAMOS, VAMOS RIVER PLATE! ¡VAMOS, VAMOS RIVER PLATE!" This was one of the...cleaner songs, to say the least. Other popular songs included terms of endearment for the other team such as "hijo de puta" (son of a bitch). And whether the fans were young, old, or anywhere in between, they made no hesitation to jump to their feet and yell, "¡Ay, Boludo! ¿Que haces?" (dumbass, what are you doing?) or - when things got really tough - "¡Concha tu madre!" (fuck your mom) to the field.
La Cancha
Footage of the crowd
The game
Right before the game started, adrenaline rushed through the stadium as each side tried to out do the other to be heard. Each team boasted live bands, balloons, streamers, and fog machines that blew smoke in their respective colors. Then finally, the game began! It was an intense game, with neither team having scored by half time. Even though we sat on the River side, I have to give credit where it's due - the Boca Juniors were very skilled; their intricate footwork, quick thinking and swift moves were quite impressive. At one point the goalie flipped backwards to keep the ball from going into the goal! And in the end, the Boca Juniors won El Superclasico.
Sunday, October 12, 2008
I Adore Uruguay
Argentina and Uruguay sit facing each other across the Rio de la Plata. Buenos Aires calls, loud and flambouyant. Montevideo answers with a quiet sophistication. Let me draw a parallel: if BsAs is New York, I'd say Uruguay is the latin version of the Hamptons. And just like New Yorkers, the Porteños flock to Uruguay when the weather heats up, bringing their families, suitcases and even their cars! I took the Buquebus boat and was "forced" to sit in first class because all the tourist class seats were sold out (torture, I know). I was surprised to step onto a boat that looked more like the inside of a cruise ship - complete with restaraunts, duty free shops and big screen TVs. Three hours later, I arrived in Montevideo.
My first stop was the Plaza Independencia, which is the point that connects la Ciudad Vieja (Old City) with modern downtown. In the middle of this plaza is a large monument to General Atrias (Uruguay's liberator) and a mausoleum underneath. Perhpas it sounds odd, but the mausoleum was quite beautiful, with guards keeping 24 hour watch over the urn and soft lights just barely illuminating the room. The plaza is also home to the Palacio Salvo, which was the tallest building in South America when it was built in the 1920's. This neo-gothic beauty kept me staring in awe for a long time. Next door is the Palacio Estevez, which was the governmental house until 1985.
Plaza Independencia
Next I went wandering down a pedestrian avenue filled with shops and restaraunts until I stumbled upon Plaza Constitución in la Ciudad Vieja. This plaza is lined by La Catedral and el Cabildo (old town hall). Saturdays this shady plaza converts into a busy marketplace with local vendors selling antiques and jewelry. I sat and had a delicious ice cream while watching some local boys playing the drums. Their catchy rhythms made me want to get up and dance!
For lunch I decided to check out el Mercado del Puerto, which I'd read was a lively place on Saturdays. When I found out it was only nine blocks away, I decided to walk to see more of the city. Wandering through the quiet streets, I found that Montevideo is an architecual dream. Walking through Ciudad Vieja, I found myself stopping every few minutes to take a picture of an ordinary house or building; but thats the thing, there weren't ordinary at all. Uruguayan architecture seems to be a mixture of classic French design with hints of British gothic. Although some buildings have cracks that tell their age, they mostly exude time-less character and understated sophistication. I reached the Mercado del Puerto and realized that the rest of the city was pretty quiet because everyone was there! Tons of restaraunts fill the old city's port. I ate at Cafe Roldo's, which was recommended in several guide books. Their choripan was ok (Argentina's choripan is better) but I did enjoy their famous medio y medio, which is half wine and half champage, which equals pure pleasure :)
An example of the typical architecture in Ciudad Vieja
After lunch, I headed back to Plaza Independencia to take a tour of Teatro Solis, which is a pretty well-known theater. After seeing the theater and learning its histoy, I sauntered down la Avenida 18 de Julio, which is Montevideo's main aveunue. I always happen to pick travel dates that seem to coincide with a date of importance in other countries, and this trip was no different. I was met by a parade. I asked a man what they were celebrating, and he said diversity. Uruguay is more diverse than Argentina - claiming Italian, Spanish, indigenous and African roots. The parade livened up the otherwise quiet downtown, drawing crowds with its latin music and dancing. And of course, I couldn't go to Montevideo without visitng its world-famous beaches. After a day of wandering, I took a late afternoon break to relax and read on Pocitos beach.
Playa de los Pocitos
That night I went back to Teatro Solis to see a play. Teatro Solis is Uruguay's counterpart to BsAs' Teatro Colón, which is renowned for having outstanding accounstics. I was devastated when I learned that the Colón would be closed for reconstruction until 2010, but decided that what the Solis offered would be the next best thing. After living in Argentina for the past couple of months, I was happy to find that I actually understood some of the jokes - it's hard to understand jokes in a different language and culture sometimes.
Teatro Solis
After dinner, I went to my hostel and met the other girls I was sharing a room with - Brazilian girls, who spoke no Spanish. And no English. Considering the only word I know in Portuguese is "obrigado" (hello), we had to make due. Surprisingly, we had pretty good conversation, with me speaking in Spanish and them in Portuguese. It's realitively easy for Portuguese speakers to understand Spanish, but is more difficult for Spanish speakers to understand Portuguese. After getting used to their accents, I started picking up similar words and "understanding" Portuguese!
The next morning I woke up to a rainy Montevideo. I was sad to leave, but opted to change travel plans and spend time in sunny Colonia del Sacramento. This was Uruguay's first city, and it exudes colonial charm. Think of it as the Uruguayan version of Jamestown or Williamsburg. I walked the cobblestoned streets and admired the buildings which were so different from Montevideo's. I saw the city's notable sights and then relaxed over lunch in an outdoor cafe, located on the corner of La Calle de los Suspiros (the street of sighs...how romantic, I know). After a lovely afternoon in Colonia I decided against spending the night since I was so close to home.
Colonia
After this trip - the gorgeous cities, architecture and beaches - I have to say, I absolutely adore Uruguay.
Besitos, B.
My first stop was the Plaza Independencia, which is the point that connects la Ciudad Vieja (Old City) with modern downtown. In the middle of this plaza is a large monument to General Atrias (Uruguay's liberator) and a mausoleum underneath. Perhpas it sounds odd, but the mausoleum was quite beautiful, with guards keeping 24 hour watch over the urn and soft lights just barely illuminating the room. The plaza is also home to the Palacio Salvo, which was the tallest building in South America when it was built in the 1920's. This neo-gothic beauty kept me staring in awe for a long time. Next door is the Palacio Estevez, which was the governmental house until 1985.
Plaza Independencia
Next I went wandering down a pedestrian avenue filled with shops and restaraunts until I stumbled upon Plaza Constitución in la Ciudad Vieja. This plaza is lined by La Catedral and el Cabildo (old town hall). Saturdays this shady plaza converts into a busy marketplace with local vendors selling antiques and jewelry. I sat and had a delicious ice cream while watching some local boys playing the drums. Their catchy rhythms made me want to get up and dance!
For lunch I decided to check out el Mercado del Puerto, which I'd read was a lively place on Saturdays. When I found out it was only nine blocks away, I decided to walk to see more of the city. Wandering through the quiet streets, I found that Montevideo is an architecual dream. Walking through Ciudad Vieja, I found myself stopping every few minutes to take a picture of an ordinary house or building; but thats the thing, there weren't ordinary at all. Uruguayan architecture seems to be a mixture of classic French design with hints of British gothic. Although some buildings have cracks that tell their age, they mostly exude time-less character and understated sophistication. I reached the Mercado del Puerto and realized that the rest of the city was pretty quiet because everyone was there! Tons of restaraunts fill the old city's port. I ate at Cafe Roldo's, which was recommended in several guide books. Their choripan was ok (Argentina's choripan is better) but I did enjoy their famous medio y medio, which is half wine and half champage, which equals pure pleasure :)
An example of the typical architecture in Ciudad Vieja
After lunch, I headed back to Plaza Independencia to take a tour of Teatro Solis, which is a pretty well-known theater. After seeing the theater and learning its histoy, I sauntered down la Avenida 18 de Julio, which is Montevideo's main aveunue. I always happen to pick travel dates that seem to coincide with a date of importance in other countries, and this trip was no different. I was met by a parade. I asked a man what they were celebrating, and he said diversity. Uruguay is more diverse than Argentina - claiming Italian, Spanish, indigenous and African roots. The parade livened up the otherwise quiet downtown, drawing crowds with its latin music and dancing. And of course, I couldn't go to Montevideo without visitng its world-famous beaches. After a day of wandering, I took a late afternoon break to relax and read on Pocitos beach.
Playa de los Pocitos
That night I went back to Teatro Solis to see a play. Teatro Solis is Uruguay's counterpart to BsAs' Teatro Colón, which is renowned for having outstanding accounstics. I was devastated when I learned that the Colón would be closed for reconstruction until 2010, but decided that what the Solis offered would be the next best thing. After living in Argentina for the past couple of months, I was happy to find that I actually understood some of the jokes - it's hard to understand jokes in a different language and culture sometimes.
Teatro Solis
After dinner, I went to my hostel and met the other girls I was sharing a room with - Brazilian girls, who spoke no Spanish. And no English. Considering the only word I know in Portuguese is "obrigado" (hello), we had to make due. Surprisingly, we had pretty good conversation, with me speaking in Spanish and them in Portuguese. It's realitively easy for Portuguese speakers to understand Spanish, but is more difficult for Spanish speakers to understand Portuguese. After getting used to their accents, I started picking up similar words and "understanding" Portuguese!
The next morning I woke up to a rainy Montevideo. I was sad to leave, but opted to change travel plans and spend time in sunny Colonia del Sacramento. This was Uruguay's first city, and it exudes colonial charm. Think of it as the Uruguayan version of Jamestown or Williamsburg. I walked the cobblestoned streets and admired the buildings which were so different from Montevideo's. I saw the city's notable sights and then relaxed over lunch in an outdoor cafe, located on the corner of La Calle de los Suspiros (the street of sighs...how romantic, I know). After a lovely afternoon in Colonia I decided against spending the night since I was so close to home.
Colonia
After this trip - the gorgeous cities, architecture and beaches - I have to say, I absolutely adore Uruguay.
Besitos, B.
Thursday, October 9, 2008
I voted absentee!
Normally I wouldn't put anything political on a travel blog, but I promise this will not be annoying - just interesting! This is NOT political commentary, its more about the experience of being abroad during an important election year.
There is less than one month left in, what could be considered, one of the most historic elections in the States. I have to admit that sometimes I've felt a little sad that I couldn't be in DC this semester, just because I'm sure it must be so interesting to be there during this election. But what I've found is that being abroad, and still trying to be involved in the election, has turned out to be a unique experience in itself!
This Tuesday, Nikki (roomie from the States), Avril and I went to the Democrats Abroad event to watch the presedential debate (NOTE: I do not affiliate myself with either political party. I believe what I believe and then vote for whoever best matches that. I just don't like labels...unless of course they're designer ;) Anyway, the event took place at Sacramento Bar in Palermo Soho. It was so strange to be completely surrounded by Americans! As I was walking through the bar, I kept saying "perdon" (excuse me), only to remember that I could speak English there. The bar was pretty packed, mixing politics and the social scene to create a fun night.
The next morning, the U.S. Embassy opened for absentee voting. I was so excited to vote because, not only is this an important election, but its also my first time voting. Plus, I was nervous that SOMETHING would go wrong with my absentee ballot, so I figured this would be a safer option. After forgetting my passport at home, cabbing it back to retrieve it and standing in line for an hour, I finally entered the embassy. It was crowded with people, and pretty unorganized; but I filled out all the forms necessary to vote. The best moment came when I dropped my enveloped ballot into the slot and received my "I voted absentee" sticker. I'm not sure how to describe it, but it was definately a proud moment.
There is less than one month left in, what could be considered, one of the most historic elections in the States. I have to admit that sometimes I've felt a little sad that I couldn't be in DC this semester, just because I'm sure it must be so interesting to be there during this election. But what I've found is that being abroad, and still trying to be involved in the election, has turned out to be a unique experience in itself!
This Tuesday, Nikki (roomie from the States), Avril and I went to the Democrats Abroad event to watch the presedential debate (NOTE: I do not affiliate myself with either political party. I believe what I believe and then vote for whoever best matches that. I just don't like labels...unless of course they're designer ;) Anyway, the event took place at Sacramento Bar in Palermo Soho. It was so strange to be completely surrounded by Americans! As I was walking through the bar, I kept saying "perdon" (excuse me), only to remember that I could speak English there. The bar was pretty packed, mixing politics and the social scene to create a fun night.
The next morning, the U.S. Embassy opened for absentee voting. I was so excited to vote because, not only is this an important election, but its also my first time voting. Plus, I was nervous that SOMETHING would go wrong with my absentee ballot, so I figured this would be a safer option. After forgetting my passport at home, cabbing it back to retrieve it and standing in line for an hour, I finally entered the embassy. It was crowded with people, and pretty unorganized; but I filled out all the forms necessary to vote. The best moment came when I dropped my enveloped ballot into the slot and received my "I voted absentee" sticker. I'm not sure how to describe it, but it was definately a proud moment.
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Mendoza: "You've only tasted the wine..."
Ah, Mendoza...also known as my mecca. Argentina is the fifth largest wine producer in the world, and considering my affinity for wine, I knew this trip was a must. Argentina's wine story began when the large Italian population of immigrants arrived, bringing with them a strong love of wine and a few delicious production secrets. They also brought the art of olive oil production, which compliments the prevelance of Italian food in Argentina. Today there are over 600 bodegas (vineyards) and many olive oil factories in Mendoza.
Mendoza is a province of Argentina, with Mendoza city being its capital. During our stay, Avril and I toured the city and found that Mendoza is truly lovely. It's much smaller and slower paced than BsAs, with less than one million inhabitants. It's filled with beautiful plazas and parks, grand tree-lined avenues and of course, the most delicious vino in the world. Argentina is known for its Malbec wine, which is a medium to full bodied red wine. Its produced from Malbec grapes, which are unique to this region because of the ideal climate. Although Argentines are red wine lovers, the bodegas also produce the occasional white wine, usually Chardonnay or Sauviogn Blanc. In a popular Argentine movie, Son of the Bride, the main charcter (who is a restaraunt owner) says to the wine vendors, "Actually throw a bottle of white wine into the order. There's always someone with bad taste."
An avenue in Mendoza
The statue of San Martin, the liberator of Argentina, Chile and Peru
Plaza España - one of the loveliest plazas in the city
While in Mendoza we toured two bodegas to learn more and to taste the wines they produce. We learned some interesting things about wine, including the history, production and wine etiquette. I won't bore you with my expertise garnered from the bodegas, but I did learn a unique fact about Argentine wine: it's all natural, which is very rare in the wine world. In Argentina it's illegal to add yeast to wine - a common practice to help with fermentation. We also toured an olive oil factory and sampled their oil with complimentary breads and sun-dried tomatoes. The wine and olive oil were so cheap we left with bottles and bottles!
Now some of you may know that it has been my life's ambition to retire early and buy a vineyard in either Italy or France. That has changed. It is now my life's goal to retire early and buy a vineyard in Mendoza and run a little bed and breakfast while drinking vino all the time (just like in my favorite movies "A Good Year" and "Under the Tuscan Sun" - both wine movies that you should see if you haven't already).
I'm currently in the midsts of a love affair with Mendoza and would love to return before the semester is over. Until then I guess I'll just have to sip on a glass of Malbec and think, I've only tasted the wine...
*The title of this post and the ending line come from a well-known Frank Sinatra song, "The Best is Yet to Come," which I have to say I agree with
I think I'll visit my friend, Pablo Neruda
I will say that Chile was not at the top of my list of countries to visit while abroad. But when I found out that it was only an eight hour bus ride from Mendoza, I thought it was the perfect idea to combine the trips.
Avril and I took buses because they are very convenient for travel in South America and relatively inexpensive; however, it takes a long time to get everywhere. The bus ride from BsAs to Chile was 22 hours with a stop in Mendoza to change buses. We decided to splurge and get the first class suite on the overnight bus, and it was worth it! The chairs folded out into full beds; dinner, breakfast and wine were offered; we watched movies; and even had a champagne toast at the end of the night!
After leaving for Santiago on a Tuesday, we arrived Wednesday evening. The busride in Chile was gorgeous because we drove through the Andes. Although it is the same mountain chain as we treked through in Peru, Chile is further south so they looked completely different. While Peru's Andes were exotic and filled with green jungles (and those damn mosquitos), Chile's were snow capped and lovely. Making the perfect touch, it even started snowing when we crossed the border. After we left the Andes, we passed through Chile's wine country, which was also quite beautiful. When we arrived to Santiago, we decided to treat ourselves to a nice dinner since we'd been cramped in a bus for nearly an entire day. We ate at Astrid y Gaston, which is an up-scale restaraunt that serves European and Latin fusion food - delicious! We wanted to go out afterwards, but after drinking so much wine at dinner, we didn't make it that far!
The next day we went on a tour of Santiago. It is Chile's capital and a big city located in a valley of the Andes. It actually looks similar to cities in the States, but with a few plazas and colonial buildings. We felt a little uneasy being in Santiago on September 11 because its the anniversary of the Golpe al Estado, which was when the military overtook their government. Each year on this day there is severe political unrest which manifests into protests, riots and sometimes violence. We saw the protesters during our tour, but we were safe and didn't see them anymore after we left the city's center.
After the tour, we went to see Pablo Neruda's house (one of the most famous Latin American writers) and read some of his poetry. "Pido Silencio," a poem I love, was inscribed in a wall outside of his house. In this poem, Neruda asks for five things, which he describes as "almost nothing and almost everything". One of the things he wants is a love that never ends (my favorite line). He talks about love and nature, which are common themes in his poetry. Although we weren't able to spend as much as I would've liked at Neruda's home, it was my favorite part of the trip.
Neruda's house
After visiting Pablo Neruda, we went to the top of a mountain to see La Virgen, which is a huge Virgin Mary statue and outdoor sanctuary that overlooks the city. It is known for having the best views of the city, and was a tranquil place to relax for a while. To leave La Virgen, we took a cable car down the mountain, which also gave amazing views of the city and the Andes.
La Virgen
The view of Santiago from La Virgen
All the kids in my program make such a big deal about wanting to go to Santiago; however, I didn't fall in love with it. I enjoyed the experience of traveling somewhere new and learning about Chile's history and culture. But in the end, my heart still belongs to Buenos Aires...
Besitos, B
Avril and I took buses because they are very convenient for travel in South America and relatively inexpensive; however, it takes a long time to get everywhere. The bus ride from BsAs to Chile was 22 hours with a stop in Mendoza to change buses. We decided to splurge and get the first class suite on the overnight bus, and it was worth it! The chairs folded out into full beds; dinner, breakfast and wine were offered; we watched movies; and even had a champagne toast at the end of the night!
After leaving for Santiago on a Tuesday, we arrived Wednesday evening. The busride in Chile was gorgeous because we drove through the Andes. Although it is the same mountain chain as we treked through in Peru, Chile is further south so they looked completely different. While Peru's Andes were exotic and filled with green jungles (and those damn mosquitos), Chile's were snow capped and lovely. Making the perfect touch, it even started snowing when we crossed the border. After we left the Andes, we passed through Chile's wine country, which was also quite beautiful. When we arrived to Santiago, we decided to treat ourselves to a nice dinner since we'd been cramped in a bus for nearly an entire day. We ate at Astrid y Gaston, which is an up-scale restaraunt that serves European and Latin fusion food - delicious! We wanted to go out afterwards, but after drinking so much wine at dinner, we didn't make it that far!
The next day we went on a tour of Santiago. It is Chile's capital and a big city located in a valley of the Andes. It actually looks similar to cities in the States, but with a few plazas and colonial buildings. We felt a little uneasy being in Santiago on September 11 because its the anniversary of the Golpe al Estado, which was when the military overtook their government. Each year on this day there is severe political unrest which manifests into protests, riots and sometimes violence. We saw the protesters during our tour, but we were safe and didn't see them anymore after we left the city's center.
After the tour, we went to see Pablo Neruda's house (one of the most famous Latin American writers) and read some of his poetry. "Pido Silencio," a poem I love, was inscribed in a wall outside of his house. In this poem, Neruda asks for five things, which he describes as "almost nothing and almost everything". One of the things he wants is a love that never ends (my favorite line). He talks about love and nature, which are common themes in his poetry. Although we weren't able to spend as much as I would've liked at Neruda's home, it was my favorite part of the trip.
Neruda's house
After visiting Pablo Neruda, we went to the top of a mountain to see La Virgen, which is a huge Virgin Mary statue and outdoor sanctuary that overlooks the city. It is known for having the best views of the city, and was a tranquil place to relax for a while. To leave La Virgen, we took a cable car down the mountain, which also gave amazing views of the city and the Andes.
La Virgen
The view of Santiago from La Virgen
All the kids in my program make such a big deal about wanting to go to Santiago; however, I didn't fall in love with it. I enjoyed the experience of traveling somewhere new and learning about Chile's history and culture. But in the end, my heart still belongs to Buenos Aires...
Besitos, B
Monday, October 6, 2008
Los Chicos Argentinos
Perhaps you are all wondering what the Argentine male population is like. You'd think they'd be sexy, brooding, mysterious and full of passion. Well, that is what you would think. I learned pretty quickly that its pretty much hit or miss here - they are either ridiculously attractive or...not. The shaggy-haired look is in (for the younger guys) which, when done properly, can be attractive. But when gone ary, it looks as if the person who is trying to rock it hasn't bathed in about a month.
One "cultural" characteristic of Argentine men is that they are very aggressive and feel that it is their "duty" to tell a woman when she is attractive. The Argentine men love me because I clearly look very foreign to them. Everytime I walk down the street this is what I hear "Sos hermosa!" or "Que linda!" or my personal favorite, "Sos la imagen de mis sueños" ("you're beautiful," "how pretty," and "you are image of my dreams," respectively). They literally stop whatever they are doing to make comments and stare. They are intrigued by my "exotic" appearance (story of my life) and always inquire about what exotic country I could be from.
Needless to say, this has gotten old pretty quickly. Sure, I guess its a compliment; but when I'm inevitably running late to my 7:45 am Monday class and I haven't had my morning cup of coffee, these are the last things I want to hear. Its also interesting that age does not seem to matter when it comes to these "sexy" cat calls (LOL). I've been hit on by men ranging from a few years younger to the 65 year old cab driver who drove me home on Saturday night. I guess to some people, age really is just a number...
One "cultural" characteristic of Argentine men is that they are very aggressive and feel that it is their "duty" to tell a woman when she is attractive. The Argentine men love me because I clearly look very foreign to them. Everytime I walk down the street this is what I hear "Sos hermosa!" or "Que linda!" or my personal favorite, "Sos la imagen de mis sueños" ("you're beautiful," "how pretty," and "you are image of my dreams," respectively). They literally stop whatever they are doing to make comments and stare. They are intrigued by my "exotic" appearance (story of my life) and always inquire about what exotic country I could be from.
Needless to say, this has gotten old pretty quickly. Sure, I guess its a compliment; but when I'm inevitably running late to my 7:45 am Monday class and I haven't had my morning cup of coffee, these are the last things I want to hear. Its also interesting that age does not seem to matter when it comes to these "sexy" cat calls (LOL). I've been hit on by men ranging from a few years younger to the 65 year old cab driver who drove me home on Saturday night. I guess to some people, age really is just a number...
Argentine Economics
Being abroad it can be hard to stay current on what's going on in the States. I try to read CNN each day to see the lastest info on the elections and other important topics. Most recently the topic of choice has been the financial crisis in the States, which has turned into a global crisis. Each day CNN posts pictures of people almost in tears, accompanying headlines claiming that record lows are being reached in the stock market, unemployment rates, etc. While I'm stressing big time about the economy, I can't help but think about Argentina's economy, which has been in a much quieter financial crisis the past few years.
A decade ago, Buenos Aires had a flourishing economy to match its rich culture. It was one of the most expensive and cosmopolitan cities in the world, boasting its title as the Paris of South America. The Argentine capital expanded its stretch and became known as the capital of South America. Buenos Aires was a magnificent city with so much to offer, and the Porteños (inhabitants of BsAs) knew it too. Their pride garnered them the reputation of being cocky and arrogant, thinking they belonged in Europe rather than on a third world continent like South America.
But I guess all good things must come to an end. The ever volatile Argentine economy crashed during the most recent economic crisis of 2001. The Argentine peso, which had been equal to the dollar, fell hard accompanying wanning prices of everything imaginable. For the first time, this inspired a surge of foreign tourists to take advantage of seeing the former South American capital while trying to experience some of its world-class sophistication at cheap prices.
But while the crisis meant good things for Americans and Europeans, it could only mean hard times for Argentines. My host mom once told me, "In Argentina, we work to live." According to her, besides the priveledged set, partically every dime that Argentines make is spent on the necessities. And maybe a dinner out once in a while. One of my roommates, also from the States, recently started an entry level job at a big company. Out of curiosity, because I had seriously been considering moving back here after graduation, I asked her how much her salary was. She said most people with a college education, working in a professional field would start somewhere between 1400 and 1800 pesos, roughly about 500 USD a month. She listed her expenses, which took up her entire salary and left nothing for a rainy day. She decided to start thinking of ways to hit her parents up for money.
Buenos Aires today is slowly starting to recover from its own financial crisis. Although the economy is a bit better - and the prices a bit higher - than it was several years ago, the effects still remain. Much of the gorgeous French inspired architecture is now tainted from graffiti meant to defy the corrupt government. The crime rate has risen significantly. And the pride that once filled the Porteños, is now a superficial shell, masking the sadness of seeing their country fall from glory and the nostalgia for their past.
A decade ago, Buenos Aires had a flourishing economy to match its rich culture. It was one of the most expensive and cosmopolitan cities in the world, boasting its title as the Paris of South America. The Argentine capital expanded its stretch and became known as the capital of South America. Buenos Aires was a magnificent city with so much to offer, and the Porteños (inhabitants of BsAs) knew it too. Their pride garnered them the reputation of being cocky and arrogant, thinking they belonged in Europe rather than on a third world continent like South America.
But I guess all good things must come to an end. The ever volatile Argentine economy crashed during the most recent economic crisis of 2001. The Argentine peso, which had been equal to the dollar, fell hard accompanying wanning prices of everything imaginable. For the first time, this inspired a surge of foreign tourists to take advantage of seeing the former South American capital while trying to experience some of its world-class sophistication at cheap prices.
But while the crisis meant good things for Americans and Europeans, it could only mean hard times for Argentines. My host mom once told me, "In Argentina, we work to live." According to her, besides the priveledged set, partically every dime that Argentines make is spent on the necessities. And maybe a dinner out once in a while. One of my roommates, also from the States, recently started an entry level job at a big company. Out of curiosity, because I had seriously been considering moving back here after graduation, I asked her how much her salary was. She said most people with a college education, working in a professional field would start somewhere between 1400 and 1800 pesos, roughly about 500 USD a month. She listed her expenses, which took up her entire salary and left nothing for a rainy day. She decided to start thinking of ways to hit her parents up for money.
Buenos Aires today is slowly starting to recover from its own financial crisis. Although the economy is a bit better - and the prices a bit higher - than it was several years ago, the effects still remain. Much of the gorgeous French inspired architecture is now tainted from graffiti meant to defy the corrupt government. The crime rate has risen significantly. And the pride that once filled the Porteños, is now a superficial shell, masking the sadness of seeing their country fall from glory and the nostalgia for their past.
Saturday, October 4, 2008
Beinvenidos a Mi Aventura Peruana!
After mucho stress, money and planning, Sabine, Avril and I took an amazing trip. We decided our first trip would also be one of the biggest. We went to Peru to see Machu Picchu and do some traveling around the country. We left BsAs Thursday evening, and arrived in Cusco early Friday morning. We became fast friends with our cab driver, Valerio, who offered to be our tour guide for the weekend. First we went by cab to a small pueblo called Ollanta in order to take the Peru Rail train to Aguas Calientes - another small pueblo which is a 20 minute bus ride from Machu Picchu. During the ride to Ollanta we munched on coca leaves – yes my friends, the same plant that coke is derived from! But its medicinal purposes help the adjustment to breathing in Cusco's high altitude. Coca is very popular in Cusco; there were leaves offered in the cab and travel agency, coca candy, coca mate (tea) and even a coca store! Valerio said that there is a drug problem in Peru, but that Colombia imports a lot of the coca leaves for their drug trade.
The view of Cusco
Coca leaves
The ride to Ollanta was two hours and I enjoyed seeing the Peruvian countryside. During our time in Ollanta, we hiked (I know - shocking!) through ancient Incan ruins and walked through the quaint village where the people were celebrating a religious holiday with having a parade. After wandering for a bit, we took the train to Aguas Calientes and then a bus to Machu Picchu, where we spent a couple of hours exploring.
The view of Ollanta
I have waited my entire life to visit Machu Picchu, and it was definitely worth the time, money and wait. I’ve traveled around the world, and seen some of the most incredible sights, but nothing can begin to compare to the natural beauty of Machu Picchu and its breathtaking Andean surroundings. Machu Picchu is the site of an ancient Incan empire, which was incredibly advanced for its time. It is known as the lost empire because the Incas abandoned it to escape the Spanish during the 1500’s. It was lost to the outside world until the early 1900’s when a North American explorer discovered it. My favorite part of my time spent at Machu Picchu was when I sat by myself on a stone wall which overlooked the Andes and rainforest and wrote in my journal (I know – huge dork). But I can’t even describe the utter peace, tranquility and sense of inspiration that this place gave me. I was sad to leave Machu Picchu, but I hope to return one day.
The jungle and the Andes surrounding Machu Picchu
The money shot - Machu Picchu
We spent the rest of the evening in Aguas Calientes, which means hot water in English. Its named for the warm water that naturally flows through the pueblo, which can be used for its healing effects. That night we decided to try authentic Peruvian cuisine for dinner. We asked the waitress at the restaraunt what she recommended as a good and typical Peruvian dish. She recommended the conejillo de Indias and albaca. Intrigued, we asked her to explain what each dish was: guinea pig, she said referring to the first; and the cousin of the llama, referring to the second. We decided that sampling the local food didn't have to be part of the trip! After dinner we went to a bar near the hot water pools and had drinks with the guys that worked there. They offered us a mysterious alcohol made of "yerba" (herbs). Their behavior was rather erratic, to say the least. We elected to have sangria instead. Hey, I'm not implying anything...I'm just saying... ;)
Aguas Calientes
Saturday was an interesting day because to get back to Cusco, Valerio drove us through the Sacred Valley of the Incas, which is a vast valley in the Andes with many pueblos that lay relatively untouched by Spanish and European influence. This is one of the aspects that I loved most about Peru. Argentines are so concerned with being European - and Buenos Aires is such a European city - it rarely even feel like Latin America. However, Peru has a large indigenous population which has a great influence on their culture. We stopped in the pueblos of Urubamba, Huayubamba, Pisac and Coya. These pueblos receive less tourists so they have more or less remained true to their roots. In Coya we were able to watch a traditional indigenious procession in celebration of La Virgen Asunta. There was music, traditional costumes and dancing – it was very interesting! Next we stopped for lunch in Pisac, and with the help of Valerio, we found that Peruvian food is very good! After some shopping in an artesenal market, and upon my repeated requests, we went to a llama farm. Of course I couldn’t go to Peru without seeing a llama (I just prefer to pet them rather than eat them!) I fed and played with the baby llamas, who were adorable and fluffy. Finally, we returned to Cusco where we spent the rest of the evening and night. We stolled through the Plaza de Armas, which has the Catedral Cusco and a beautiful plaza – all of which is surrounded by cafes and restaraunts. We also went to the Cultural Arts Center to see a traditional Indian show while sipping coca de mate.
Ruins in Pisac
The view of Pisac from our restaraunt
My llama, Blanco, who I wish I could take home
Cusco and the Plaza de Armas at sunrise
The next morning we went to Lima, which is the capital of Peru. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect of Lima, but it far exceeded any expectations I had set. While the people are still majority indigenous, there is a greater Spanish influence which is reflected in the partly mestizo population, the way of life and the city’s architecture. The architecture was truly beautiful – it’s a large city, mostly inspired by the Spanish reign and colonial era, with brightly painted historic buildings in every color of the rainbow. We took a city tour in the morning to learn more about the history and then spent the rest of the day wandering and exploring the city. In Lima there is the Old Plaza de Armas, which is surrounded by the Catedral Lima, El Palacio Gobierno, El Palacio Municipal and many other important buildings. Catholicism is the religion of choice for the majority of Peruvians, which was definitely reflected in the amount of cathedrals in the city. Most of the cathedrals were built in the Baroque style, which was very popular during colonial times. These cathedrals are elaborate, with much attention paid to detail, and many gold adornishments. Next we visited the Plaza de San Martin, which also houses several important buildings and monuments. After leaving the city center, we went to the barrio Barranco, which has a more bohemian feel. It has many cute restaraunts and cafes, and a great view of the Pacific Ocean and beach from El Puente de los Suspiros (the bridge of sighs) which is a popular location for couples to frequent. Finally, we went to the barrio Miraflores and went to a few marketplaces to do some shopping before heading to dinner and the airport around 9.
The front of an elaborate cathedral in Lima
Plaza in the city center
Something that's been on my mind since leaving Lima is the poverty. Obviously I knew that Peru was a third world country before our trip; but Lima was a city of contrasts. I found several parts to be very beautiful and was surprised at how well maintained (and clean - a refreshing difference from BsAs!) the city is. But in reality, the beauty stops at an invisible line, and the rest of the city is made of villas (shanty towns). BsAs has its share of villas; however, they are carefully hidden so that you don't have to see them unless you make an effort to see them - I guess just another way the poor are silenced and further forgetten. But Lima literally was divided in half - gorgeous buildings and ornate cathedrals that the government clearly budgets a good amount of money to maintain; and the other half, living in complete despair and poverty thats unheard of in the first world. Also, did I mention that Peru is relatively expensive? We went through about 400 soles (a little over 100 USD per day, per person whereas in BsAs that would last me about a week) which we thought was ridiculous considered how poor the country is. No wonder some of Peru's own citizens can barely afford to live there.
Picture of a typical Peruvian villa (clearly I did not take this picture, in case you were wondering)
Ok, so now its time for some comic relief after such a heavy topic. Let me tell you - you are not a badass until you have backpacked through the jungles of the Andes to reach Machu Picchu. This did not come without a price – and I’m not talking about money. I was wearing comfortable traveling clothes, including pants that stopped below my knees which turned out to be a HUGE mistake. I was literally attacked by mosquitos and insects. On my right leg alone, I had about 60 bites. On Saturday my legs ended up swelling so much due to the bites, the hiking, the altitude and my tight shoes. By that night my feet were swollen up to three times their usual size! They looked like they belonged to a 300 lbs man! Clearly I was really scared that I had contracted some sort of virus from the South American jungle mosquitos unknown to the Western world – I could barely even walk! So, what does the true badass do?? I went to a Peruvian pharmacy and showed them my problem. Throughout South America the pharmacists are like doctors, so they are able to prescribe medication. The pharmacist took one look at my swollen legs and his expression said it all. He led me to the back of the pharmacy into a small and sketchy room where I had to drop trou in order to receive the first in a series of shots to calm the histamines and my allergic reaction to the bites. Believe me, not cute!
Whew! That was an exhausting trip! Believe me, we didn´t slept for days pretty much because we did so much in a short time. But, even with the medical problems, I loved this trip, and will remember it forever.
The view of Cusco
Coca leaves
The ride to Ollanta was two hours and I enjoyed seeing the Peruvian countryside. During our time in Ollanta, we hiked (I know - shocking!) through ancient Incan ruins and walked through the quaint village where the people were celebrating a religious holiday with having a parade. After wandering for a bit, we took the train to Aguas Calientes and then a bus to Machu Picchu, where we spent a couple of hours exploring.
The view of Ollanta
I have waited my entire life to visit Machu Picchu, and it was definitely worth the time, money and wait. I’ve traveled around the world, and seen some of the most incredible sights, but nothing can begin to compare to the natural beauty of Machu Picchu and its breathtaking Andean surroundings. Machu Picchu is the site of an ancient Incan empire, which was incredibly advanced for its time. It is known as the lost empire because the Incas abandoned it to escape the Spanish during the 1500’s. It was lost to the outside world until the early 1900’s when a North American explorer discovered it. My favorite part of my time spent at Machu Picchu was when I sat by myself on a stone wall which overlooked the Andes and rainforest and wrote in my journal (I know – huge dork). But I can’t even describe the utter peace, tranquility and sense of inspiration that this place gave me. I was sad to leave Machu Picchu, but I hope to return one day.
The jungle and the Andes surrounding Machu Picchu
The money shot - Machu Picchu
We spent the rest of the evening in Aguas Calientes, which means hot water in English. Its named for the warm water that naturally flows through the pueblo, which can be used for its healing effects. That night we decided to try authentic Peruvian cuisine for dinner. We asked the waitress at the restaraunt what she recommended as a good and typical Peruvian dish. She recommended the conejillo de Indias and albaca. Intrigued, we asked her to explain what each dish was: guinea pig, she said referring to the first; and the cousin of the llama, referring to the second. We decided that sampling the local food didn't have to be part of the trip! After dinner we went to a bar near the hot water pools and had drinks with the guys that worked there. They offered us a mysterious alcohol made of "yerba" (herbs). Their behavior was rather erratic, to say the least. We elected to have sangria instead. Hey, I'm not implying anything...I'm just saying... ;)
Aguas Calientes
Saturday was an interesting day because to get back to Cusco, Valerio drove us through the Sacred Valley of the Incas, which is a vast valley in the Andes with many pueblos that lay relatively untouched by Spanish and European influence. This is one of the aspects that I loved most about Peru. Argentines are so concerned with being European - and Buenos Aires is such a European city - it rarely even feel like Latin America. However, Peru has a large indigenous population which has a great influence on their culture. We stopped in the pueblos of Urubamba, Huayubamba, Pisac and Coya. These pueblos receive less tourists so they have more or less remained true to their roots. In Coya we were able to watch a traditional indigenious procession in celebration of La Virgen Asunta. There was music, traditional costumes and dancing – it was very interesting! Next we stopped for lunch in Pisac, and with the help of Valerio, we found that Peruvian food is very good! After some shopping in an artesenal market, and upon my repeated requests, we went to a llama farm. Of course I couldn’t go to Peru without seeing a llama (I just prefer to pet them rather than eat them!) I fed and played with the baby llamas, who were adorable and fluffy. Finally, we returned to Cusco where we spent the rest of the evening and night. We stolled through the Plaza de Armas, which has the Catedral Cusco and a beautiful plaza – all of which is surrounded by cafes and restaraunts. We also went to the Cultural Arts Center to see a traditional Indian show while sipping coca de mate.
Ruins in Pisac
The view of Pisac from our restaraunt
My llama, Blanco, who I wish I could take home
Cusco and the Plaza de Armas at sunrise
The next morning we went to Lima, which is the capital of Peru. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect of Lima, but it far exceeded any expectations I had set. While the people are still majority indigenous, there is a greater Spanish influence which is reflected in the partly mestizo population, the way of life and the city’s architecture. The architecture was truly beautiful – it’s a large city, mostly inspired by the Spanish reign and colonial era, with brightly painted historic buildings in every color of the rainbow. We took a city tour in the morning to learn more about the history and then spent the rest of the day wandering and exploring the city. In Lima there is the Old Plaza de Armas, which is surrounded by the Catedral Lima, El Palacio Gobierno, El Palacio Municipal and many other important buildings. Catholicism is the religion of choice for the majority of Peruvians, which was definitely reflected in the amount of cathedrals in the city. Most of the cathedrals were built in the Baroque style, which was very popular during colonial times. These cathedrals are elaborate, with much attention paid to detail, and many gold adornishments. Next we visited the Plaza de San Martin, which also houses several important buildings and monuments. After leaving the city center, we went to the barrio Barranco, which has a more bohemian feel. It has many cute restaraunts and cafes, and a great view of the Pacific Ocean and beach from El Puente de los Suspiros (the bridge of sighs) which is a popular location for couples to frequent. Finally, we went to the barrio Miraflores and went to a few marketplaces to do some shopping before heading to dinner and the airport around 9.
The front of an elaborate cathedral in Lima
Plaza in the city center
Something that's been on my mind since leaving Lima is the poverty. Obviously I knew that Peru was a third world country before our trip; but Lima was a city of contrasts. I found several parts to be very beautiful and was surprised at how well maintained (and clean - a refreshing difference from BsAs!) the city is. But in reality, the beauty stops at an invisible line, and the rest of the city is made of villas (shanty towns). BsAs has its share of villas; however, they are carefully hidden so that you don't have to see them unless you make an effort to see them - I guess just another way the poor are silenced and further forgetten. But Lima literally was divided in half - gorgeous buildings and ornate cathedrals that the government clearly budgets a good amount of money to maintain; and the other half, living in complete despair and poverty thats unheard of in the first world. Also, did I mention that Peru is relatively expensive? We went through about 400 soles (a little over 100 USD per day, per person whereas in BsAs that would last me about a week) which we thought was ridiculous considered how poor the country is. No wonder some of Peru's own citizens can barely afford to live there.
Picture of a typical Peruvian villa (clearly I did not take this picture, in case you were wondering)
Ok, so now its time for some comic relief after such a heavy topic. Let me tell you - you are not a badass until you have backpacked through the jungles of the Andes to reach Machu Picchu. This did not come without a price – and I’m not talking about money. I was wearing comfortable traveling clothes, including pants that stopped below my knees which turned out to be a HUGE mistake. I was literally attacked by mosquitos and insects. On my right leg alone, I had about 60 bites. On Saturday my legs ended up swelling so much due to the bites, the hiking, the altitude and my tight shoes. By that night my feet were swollen up to three times their usual size! They looked like they belonged to a 300 lbs man! Clearly I was really scared that I had contracted some sort of virus from the South American jungle mosquitos unknown to the Western world – I could barely even walk! So, what does the true badass do?? I went to a Peruvian pharmacy and showed them my problem. Throughout South America the pharmacists are like doctors, so they are able to prescribe medication. The pharmacist took one look at my swollen legs and his expression said it all. He led me to the back of the pharmacy into a small and sketchy room where I had to drop trou in order to receive the first in a series of shots to calm the histamines and my allergic reaction to the bites. Believe me, not cute!
Whew! That was an exhausting trip! Believe me, we didn´t slept for days pretty much because we did so much in a short time. But, even with the medical problems, I loved this trip, and will remember it forever.
Intercambio Orientation and More
This post was originally written the first week of August.
This week we had international student orientation, which I was excited for because there were a lot more students there than those who took the language course with me. Actually most of the “activities” were kind of lame so I didn’t go, but I did get a chance to meet more people.
Tuesday I discovered the Florida Garden Cafe, which is a local favorite, and ate chocolate con churros - a typical Argentine treat. It's churros filled with dulce de leche, and you dip it in pure melted chocolate. ¡Que rico! Next I went to Le Spa Rouge, which is a spa in the Galerias Pacifico mall – this is a beautiful old building that was once the railroad station and has been converted into a high-end mall. The spa was absolutely gorgeous – very posh – just my style ;) If you are ever in BsAs, I high recommend relaxing here because a massage is only $30 USD.
Wednesday was exciting because I finally took a tango lesson. Afterwards a friend and I went to dinner at a mexican restaraunt, after weeks of craving it (my theory: I think I was a mexican in another lifetime and therefore must eat mexican food at least 1-2 times per week). Xalapa, which is in Palermo Soho, offers authentic mexican food and is famous for their margaritas - yum yum ;)
One of my favorite boliches in BsAs is Museo (museum) in the Montserrat barrio. Its always a good time! The boliche consists of four floors with bars on each floor and chandaliers hanging from the ceiling. The DJ did a good job mixing it up - playing an assortment of Euro techno, American music, 80's, and latin - which is important because I LOVE dancing. Wednesdays' afterwork is very popular. However, the Argentine guys who go to this bolicheare known to be overly aggressive. And when I say aggressive I mean they were grabbing us, touching us, following us wherever we went etc
Inside Museo on a Wednesday night
Thursday was class registration. I have decided to enjoy my time abroad and need lots of time to experience the culture and travel (ahem, sleep), which is why I've decided to take it easy on the course load this semester. Since I already completed one class, I'm taking 3 during the semester: Arte y Arquitectura en America Latina, Organizacion de Eventos Especiales, and El Nuevo Cine Latinoamericano. The grading system in BsAs is completely different from the states. The classes give virtually no work besides reading and maybe a midterm or paper; but the final is worth about 70%. Also, its necessary to attend 75% of the classes to take the final. Yeah, we'll see how this works out...
Besitos, B.
This week we had international student orientation, which I was excited for because there were a lot more students there than those who took the language course with me. Actually most of the “activities” were kind of lame so I didn’t go, but I did get a chance to meet more people.
Tuesday I discovered the Florida Garden Cafe, which is a local favorite, and ate chocolate con churros - a typical Argentine treat. It's churros filled with dulce de leche, and you dip it in pure melted chocolate. ¡Que rico! Next I went to Le Spa Rouge, which is a spa in the Galerias Pacifico mall – this is a beautiful old building that was once the railroad station and has been converted into a high-end mall. The spa was absolutely gorgeous – very posh – just my style ;) If you are ever in BsAs, I high recommend relaxing here because a massage is only $30 USD.
Wednesday was exciting because I finally took a tango lesson. Afterwards a friend and I went to dinner at a mexican restaraunt, after weeks of craving it (my theory: I think I was a mexican in another lifetime and therefore must eat mexican food at least 1-2 times per week). Xalapa, which is in Palermo Soho, offers authentic mexican food and is famous for their margaritas - yum yum ;)
One of my favorite boliches in BsAs is Museo (museum) in the Montserrat barrio. Its always a good time! The boliche consists of four floors with bars on each floor and chandaliers hanging from the ceiling. The DJ did a good job mixing it up - playing an assortment of Euro techno, American music, 80's, and latin - which is important because I LOVE dancing. Wednesdays' afterwork is very popular. However, the Argentine guys who go to this bolicheare known to be overly aggressive. And when I say aggressive I mean they were grabbing us, touching us, following us wherever we went etc
Inside Museo on a Wednesday night
Thursday was class registration. I have decided to enjoy my time abroad and need lots of time to experience the culture and travel (ahem, sleep), which is why I've decided to take it easy on the course load this semester. Since I already completed one class, I'm taking 3 during the semester: Arte y Arquitectura en America Latina, Organizacion de Eventos Especiales, and El Nuevo Cine Latinoamericano. The grading system in BsAs is completely different from the states. The classes give virtually no work besides reading and maybe a midterm or paper; but the final is worth about 70%. Also, its necessary to attend 75% of the classes to take the final. Yeah, we'll see how this works out...
Besitos, B.
Brazilian concert
This post was originally written the last week of July and has been edited.
This week I had the flu. But on Monday, before I started dying, I went to a sick underground concert with my roommates and a friend from school. It was in a warehouse in a neighborhood called Once (pronounced Ohn-say..not "once"), which I am usually very scared of because I got lost there one time. Anyway it was a percussion concert, playing brazilian music. It was lots of fun, and we even danced a little. But we stuck out like a soar thumb because most of the people were druggies, the scent of pot was heavy in the air, and then there were the people who were tripping of something serious, although I'm not sure what it was. All in all, it was lots of fun.
After the concert, we had a serious case of the drunchies so we asked a cab driver for a good restaraunt recommendation. He took us to El Cuartito (which means the little room) in el Centro. This pizzeria is a hole in the wall, and at first glance seems to offer nothing special. However, its a local favorite for a reason. It has delicious pizza that comes in all varieties, and cooked just right. Pizza is very popular here, perhaps because most Argentines are Italian? Whatever the reason, this is a new favorite.
This week I had the flu. But on Monday, before I started dying, I went to a sick underground concert with my roommates and a friend from school. It was in a warehouse in a neighborhood called Once (pronounced Ohn-say..not "once"), which I am usually very scared of because I got lost there one time. Anyway it was a percussion concert, playing brazilian music. It was lots of fun, and we even danced a little. But we stuck out like a soar thumb because most of the people were druggies, the scent of pot was heavy in the air, and then there were the people who were tripping of something serious, although I'm not sure what it was. All in all, it was lots of fun.
After the concert, we had a serious case of the drunchies so we asked a cab driver for a good restaraunt recommendation. He took us to El Cuartito (which means the little room) in el Centro. This pizzeria is a hole in the wall, and at first glance seems to offer nothing special. However, its a local favorite for a reason. It has delicious pizza that comes in all varieties, and cooked just right. Pizza is very popular here, perhaps because most Argentines are Italian? Whatever the reason, this is a new favorite.
I think it's time for a fiesta...
This post was originally written my third week in BsAs. Enjoy!
This week started off interestingly enough. There was a massive protest in BsAs - the farmers were protesting a tax that was set to be voted on the next day in Congress. So Tuesday 250,000 people came to protest, chanting, drumming, and whistling. Our professors warned us that protests can be dangerous, especially for foreigners. I left my house early Tues. morning incase there was lots of traffic from the protest. When I got off the bus, I saw the protest heading directly towards me - needless to say, I was nervous. But then I saw a cafe across the street and thought 'I really want a medialuna y cafe (croissant and espresso)' I stood there for a moment looking back and forth between the protest and the cafe, deciding which was more important...I decided to go for the cafe! I ran across the street in front of the protest to get my medialuna. The protesters were nice to me - they smiled and waved. One of my friends here said "I can't believe you risked your life for a medialuna!" The sad thing is, it wasn't even a good medialuna - it was kind of stale.
Medialuna y cafe
Wednesday was my host dad's, Carmelo, birthday so we had a fiesta! Adriana cooked on the parilla, which is a huge Argentina grill. Parillas are common here because of the abundance and popularity of carne (red meat). We had choripan (sausage sandwiches), steak, cake, and of course vino tinto (red wine). After dinner, they started playing latin music and dancing - salsa, merengue, etc - even Adriana! I have decided to take salsa lessons in addition to the tango lessons.
An interesting cultural difference I've been observing is that going out, partying, and drinking are very much a part of Argentine culture. Our professors ask us everyday "Did you all go out to a boliche (club) last night? Which one? Did you like it?" and "Did you drink Argentine wine? Which one did you like?" And I go to a Catholic school! Going out all night and dancing is what you are SUPPOSED to do here. However, although Argentines like to drink and party, they generally don't get drunk - drinking to excess is considered bad manners here.
So last night, like a good Argentine girl, I went out to dinner with friends at 11 to celebrate el Dia de los Amigos (Friends' Day, which is a big deal here). We shared a bottle of Malbec wine and then went to a popular boliche called Bahrein. We ended up getting a table because we had enough people and it wasn't obscenely expensive. I was drinking champagne and dancing to the good techno music. When I got a cab to come home I was nervous because it was really late - or really early, however you look at it - and I was by myself. I became more nervous when the cab driver asked me where I was from. Some cab drivers here will take advantage of foreigners by driving in circles or even robbing them. I elected against saying that I'm from the States (which would indicate I have money to steal) and decided to say Sao Paulo, Brazil instead. Brazil is beautiful, but has many impoverished and corrupt areas. Gracias a Dios he believed me and didn't speak Portuguese. He was intrigued and started rambling on about fútbol.
Besitos, B.
This week started off interestingly enough. There was a massive protest in BsAs - the farmers were protesting a tax that was set to be voted on the next day in Congress. So Tuesday 250,000 people came to protest, chanting, drumming, and whistling. Our professors warned us that protests can be dangerous, especially for foreigners. I left my house early Tues. morning incase there was lots of traffic from the protest. When I got off the bus, I saw the protest heading directly towards me - needless to say, I was nervous. But then I saw a cafe across the street and thought 'I really want a medialuna y cafe (croissant and espresso)' I stood there for a moment looking back and forth between the protest and the cafe, deciding which was more important...I decided to go for the cafe! I ran across the street in front of the protest to get my medialuna. The protesters were nice to me - they smiled and waved. One of my friends here said "I can't believe you risked your life for a medialuna!" The sad thing is, it wasn't even a good medialuna - it was kind of stale.
Medialuna y cafe
Wednesday was my host dad's, Carmelo, birthday so we had a fiesta! Adriana cooked on the parilla, which is a huge Argentina grill. Parillas are common here because of the abundance and popularity of carne (red meat). We had choripan (sausage sandwiches), steak, cake, and of course vino tinto (red wine). After dinner, they started playing latin music and dancing - salsa, merengue, etc - even Adriana! I have decided to take salsa lessons in addition to the tango lessons.
An interesting cultural difference I've been observing is that going out, partying, and drinking are very much a part of Argentine culture. Our professors ask us everyday "Did you all go out to a boliche (club) last night? Which one? Did you like it?" and "Did you drink Argentine wine? Which one did you like?" And I go to a Catholic school! Going out all night and dancing is what you are SUPPOSED to do here. However, although Argentines like to drink and party, they generally don't get drunk - drinking to excess is considered bad manners here.
So last night, like a good Argentine girl, I went out to dinner with friends at 11 to celebrate el Dia de los Amigos (Friends' Day, which is a big deal here). We shared a bottle of Malbec wine and then went to a popular boliche called Bahrein. We ended up getting a table because we had enough people and it wasn't obscenely expensive. I was drinking champagne and dancing to the good techno music. When I got a cab to come home I was nervous because it was really late - or really early, however you look at it - and I was by myself. I became more nervous when the cab driver asked me where I was from. Some cab drivers here will take advantage of foreigners by driving in circles or even robbing them. I elected against saying that I'm from the States (which would indicate I have money to steal) and decided to say Sao Paulo, Brazil instead. Brazil is beautiful, but has many impoverished and corrupt areas. Gracias a Dios he believed me and didn't speak Portuguese. He was intrigued and started rambling on about fútbol.
Besitos, B.
el 9 de Julio and the beginning of life in BsAs
This was originally written my second week in BsAs, and has been edited. Enjoy!
This has been an exhausting week! Monday was the first day of the intensive Spanish language program at my school, Universidad Catolica Argentina. I was nervous because I didn't have any friends doing the program, so I was anxious to meet the other people.
Wedesday was 9 de Julio, which is Argentina's Independence day, so we had a day off from school. Sabine and I had brunch at a cafe and wandered down Avenida de Santa Fe, which is very popular for shopping here. Later we stopped by El Ateneo, which is beautiful because it was once an opera theater, which has been converted into a bookstore. The ceiling is still elaborately painted, the different sections of books are on different balconies - all overlooking the cafe which is on the stage.
My friend and I found it very interesting that none of the Argentines were celebrating their independence day. The city is usually bustling with people and slightly overcrowded, well, most of the time. However today it was eerily quiet and deserted. We asked our waitor at brunch why no one was celebrating. He said that this is how it always is in Buenos Aires on 9 de Julio. Argentines are arrogant when they are outside of the country; but he said that when they are inside their country they are humble because they know their government is corrupt and has many problems. Because the people are so dissatisfied with the government and the current state of their country, they choose to not celebrate their independence day.
My friends and I had a very typical Argentine weekend. Most of Saturday was spent in various cafes around the city, lounging and talking. A friend said today, after we had been in a cafe for two hours "Well, I guess we're Argentine now!" That night we went to Crobar, which is a popular boliche in BsAs. I'm not a fan of Crobar because the main room is overly crowded and the DJ pounds electronica all night. The smaller room in the back was better though, playing mostly latin music. We went to bed around 6 am - which is early by Argentine standards! Sunday was spent in San Telmo, which is one of the most historic barrios in the city. We went to the Feria de San Telmo, which is an antiques flea market, with of course tango dancers, live music and a variety of food.
Besitos, B.
This has been an exhausting week! Monday was the first day of the intensive Spanish language program at my school, Universidad Catolica Argentina. I was nervous because I didn't have any friends doing the program, so I was anxious to meet the other people.
Wedesday was 9 de Julio, which is Argentina's Independence day, so we had a day off from school. Sabine and I had brunch at a cafe and wandered down Avenida de Santa Fe, which is very popular for shopping here. Later we stopped by El Ateneo, which is beautiful because it was once an opera theater, which has been converted into a bookstore. The ceiling is still elaborately painted, the different sections of books are on different balconies - all overlooking the cafe which is on the stage.
My friend and I found it very interesting that none of the Argentines were celebrating their independence day. The city is usually bustling with people and slightly overcrowded, well, most of the time. However today it was eerily quiet and deserted. We asked our waitor at brunch why no one was celebrating. He said that this is how it always is in Buenos Aires on 9 de Julio. Argentines are arrogant when they are outside of the country; but he said that when they are inside their country they are humble because they know their government is corrupt and has many problems. Because the people are so dissatisfied with the government and the current state of their country, they choose to not celebrate their independence day.
My friends and I had a very typical Argentine weekend. Most of Saturday was spent in various cafes around the city, lounging and talking. A friend said today, after we had been in a cafe for two hours "Well, I guess we're Argentine now!" That night we went to Crobar, which is a popular boliche in BsAs. I'm not a fan of Crobar because the main room is overly crowded and the DJ pounds electronica all night. The smaller room in the back was better though, playing mostly latin music. We went to bed around 6 am - which is early by Argentine standards! Sunday was spent in San Telmo, which is one of the most historic barrios in the city. We went to the Feria de San Telmo, which is an antiques flea market, with of course tango dancers, live music and a variety of food.
Besitos, B.
My first week in Buenos Aires
This first post was originally written after my first week in Buenos Aires.
After hours of searching, endless nerves and anticipation, I have finally settled into my homestay. I'm living with a family in the neighborhood Belgrano, which is an upper-middle class area. The family includes Adriana (mom), Carmelo (dad), three daughters, and Donatella (the dog). Also living here are a Venezuelan student and two American girls...yes, many people, but its a big house with room for everyone. My room is cute, spacious and even has a balcony overlooking the cobblestoned streets outside. Dinner is every night at 9:30, and the food is delicious. Last night we ate asado (argentine steak), papas (potatos), y ensalada (salad). For dessert we had flan (its similar to a custard with a dulce de leche top). The family is warm and friendly - they really go out of their way to make me feel at home.
Mi familia argentina (and my cousin)
Now I'm sure you are all anxious to hear about Argentina. Buenos Aires is a cosmopolitan city - it looks like a mix between New York City and Paris. The result is a beautiful city, full of European and Latin contrasts. There is a popular saying here, "Argentines are Italians, educated by the British, who speak Spanish, and aspire to be French." I think this is a perfect way to describe them. The majority of the people here immigrated from Europe, mainly Spain and Italy. When Buenos Aires was being built, the goal was to design a European city in South America.
The past week has been interesting because my mom, Nana and cousin decided to come for a vacation. Last Sunday Mom and I spent the day at the Feria de Recoleta, which is an outdoor market with several local vendors selling jewelry, art, food, etc. Monday we went to the Basicila Nuestra Sra. Pilar and the Recoleta Cemetary, which is where Evita Peron is buried, along with many other notable figures from wealthy Argentine families. This cemetary is oddly beautiful. Its small narrow paths are lined with oppulent graves, some of which are ardorned with gold and one that is equipped with an elevator! However, his was not Evita's orignal resting place; originally her body was taken out of the country. Once people started demanding she be brought back and buried in Recoleta, the wealthy families threatened to sell their plots and move their deceased family members to other cemetaries. They did not like Evita because she suscribed to the "take from the rich and give to the poor" philosophy and was born to a lower class family. In the end a nice man gave the plot he'd bought for himself as a present for Evita.
On Wednesday we went on a tour so my family could get to know BsAs better. One of the places that I enjoyed the most was the Plaza de Mayo, which is probably the most important plaza in the city. This is where the mothers and grandmothers of the disappeared gather each Wednesday to protest (its a conspiracy - thousands of people just "disappeared" during the 1970s). This is also where many other protests take place since its the political center of the city. It is surrounded by the Casa Rosada (the Pink House - similar to our White House), the Catedral Metropolitania (Metropolitan Cathedral), the Cabildo, and other governmental buildings. Another interesting neighborhood we visited was La Boca, which houses the fútbol stadium (La Bombonera) for Boca Juniors. This is also where the tango was born. And yes, there were people tango-ing in the street! This is a working class area where the Italian immigrants lived when they first arrived - its characterized by its brightly painted buildings.
A French inspired building in Plaza de Mayo
Plaza de San Martin (the general who liberated Argentina and several other countries in SA)
Along 9 de Julio, a large avenue in BsAs.
La Casa Rosada
Plaza de Mayo y la Catedral Metropolitana
La Boca
Friday we went to Cafe Tortoni to see a tango show and dinner. This was the first cafe in Buenos Aires and was designed by a French architect. Tortoni is important because its where many famous artists and writers, such as Jorge Borges, would frequent. Although the food was forgetable, I loved the cafe. It has been very well perserved (or very well refurbished, which ever one you'd like to believe). Walking through the doors is as if you're leaving the busy 21st century and going back into the 1800's. The cafe is beautiful - the walls are adorned with pictures and paintings by its most famous attendees, and the ceiling boasts meticulously crafted stained glass windows. And of course, the tango show was amazing: filled with passion and a certain nostalgia for the past. I will take tango lessons, but I'm sure I will never be able to dance like that!
Inside the lovely Cafe Tortoni
Cameras were prohibited during the show, but I snuck a picture!
Besitos, B.
After hours of searching, endless nerves and anticipation, I have finally settled into my homestay. I'm living with a family in the neighborhood Belgrano, which is an upper-middle class area. The family includes Adriana (mom), Carmelo (dad), three daughters, and Donatella (the dog). Also living here are a Venezuelan student and two American girls...yes, many people, but its a big house with room for everyone. My room is cute, spacious and even has a balcony overlooking the cobblestoned streets outside. Dinner is every night at 9:30, and the food is delicious. Last night we ate asado (argentine steak), papas (potatos), y ensalada (salad). For dessert we had flan (its similar to a custard with a dulce de leche top). The family is warm and friendly - they really go out of their way to make me feel at home.
Mi familia argentina (and my cousin)
Now I'm sure you are all anxious to hear about Argentina. Buenos Aires is a cosmopolitan city - it looks like a mix between New York City and Paris. The result is a beautiful city, full of European and Latin contrasts. There is a popular saying here, "Argentines are Italians, educated by the British, who speak Spanish, and aspire to be French." I think this is a perfect way to describe them. The majority of the people here immigrated from Europe, mainly Spain and Italy. When Buenos Aires was being built, the goal was to design a European city in South America.
The past week has been interesting because my mom, Nana and cousin decided to come for a vacation. Last Sunday Mom and I spent the day at the Feria de Recoleta, which is an outdoor market with several local vendors selling jewelry, art, food, etc. Monday we went to the Basicila Nuestra Sra. Pilar and the Recoleta Cemetary, which is where Evita Peron is buried, along with many other notable figures from wealthy Argentine families. This cemetary is oddly beautiful. Its small narrow paths are lined with oppulent graves, some of which are ardorned with gold and one that is equipped with an elevator! However, his was not Evita's orignal resting place; originally her body was taken out of the country. Once people started demanding she be brought back and buried in Recoleta, the wealthy families threatened to sell their plots and move their deceased family members to other cemetaries. They did not like Evita because she suscribed to the "take from the rich and give to the poor" philosophy and was born to a lower class family. In the end a nice man gave the plot he'd bought for himself as a present for Evita.
On Wednesday we went on a tour so my family could get to know BsAs better. One of the places that I enjoyed the most was the Plaza de Mayo, which is probably the most important plaza in the city. This is where the mothers and grandmothers of the disappeared gather each Wednesday to protest (its a conspiracy - thousands of people just "disappeared" during the 1970s). This is also where many other protests take place since its the political center of the city. It is surrounded by the Casa Rosada (the Pink House - similar to our White House), the Catedral Metropolitania (Metropolitan Cathedral), the Cabildo, and other governmental buildings. Another interesting neighborhood we visited was La Boca, which houses the fútbol stadium (La Bombonera) for Boca Juniors. This is also where the tango was born. And yes, there were people tango-ing in the street! This is a working class area where the Italian immigrants lived when they first arrived - its characterized by its brightly painted buildings.
A French inspired building in Plaza de Mayo
Plaza de San Martin (the general who liberated Argentina and several other countries in SA)
Along 9 de Julio, a large avenue in BsAs.
La Casa Rosada
Plaza de Mayo y la Catedral Metropolitana
La Boca
Friday we went to Cafe Tortoni to see a tango show and dinner. This was the first cafe in Buenos Aires and was designed by a French architect. Tortoni is important because its where many famous artists and writers, such as Jorge Borges, would frequent. Although the food was forgetable, I loved the cafe. It has been very well perserved (or very well refurbished, which ever one you'd like to believe). Walking through the doors is as if you're leaving the busy 21st century and going back into the 1800's. The cafe is beautiful - the walls are adorned with pictures and paintings by its most famous attendees, and the ceiling boasts meticulously crafted stained glass windows. And of course, the tango show was amazing: filled with passion and a certain nostalgia for the past. I will take tango lessons, but I'm sure I will never be able to dance like that!
Inside the lovely Cafe Tortoni
Cameras were prohibited during the show, but I snuck a picture!
Besitos, B.
Introduction: Why Argentina?
Hola a todas! Como están?
One of the main reasons I decided to go to AU was for the study abroad program. As a Spanish minor it was necessary for me; plus I didn't spend the past several years learning Spanish to never use it! But why Argentina? Well, that's a question I've had to answer many times. It was a difficult decision to make, and I went back and forth between Argentina and Spain several times. My final decision was based on this: I love Europe. I've traveled a lot in Europe and will continue to travel in Europe. It is very likely that I will even live and work in Europe one day. But how many opprotunities would I have to live in South America? Everyone does the Europe thing; so I decided to take the road less traveled and picked Buenos Aires, Argentina. I wasn't exactly sure what to expect, but I knew it would be worth with it.
Now I've decided to start travel blog, "La vida es linda. Y mas en Argentina," (Life is beautiful, and more so in Argentina) which is quote I have to give my host dad, Carmelo, credit for. I will write updates, comment on Argentine and latin culture, describe my travels and post pictures from my time abroad. The first few posts will be a compilation of e-mails and observations of the places I've been; the next ones will be written as time goes along.
I hope you enjoy my blog! Check back because I will try to update it as often as possible.
Besitos, B.
One of the main reasons I decided to go to AU was for the study abroad program. As a Spanish minor it was necessary for me; plus I didn't spend the past several years learning Spanish to never use it! But why Argentina? Well, that's a question I've had to answer many times. It was a difficult decision to make, and I went back and forth between Argentina and Spain several times. My final decision was based on this: I love Europe. I've traveled a lot in Europe and will continue to travel in Europe. It is very likely that I will even live and work in Europe one day. But how many opprotunities would I have to live in South America? Everyone does the Europe thing; so I decided to take the road less traveled and picked Buenos Aires, Argentina. I wasn't exactly sure what to expect, but I knew it would be worth with it.
Now I've decided to start travel blog, "La vida es linda. Y mas en Argentina," (Life is beautiful, and more so in Argentina) which is quote I have to give my host dad, Carmelo, credit for. I will write updates, comment on Argentine and latin culture, describe my travels and post pictures from my time abroad. The first few posts will be a compilation of e-mails and observations of the places I've been; the next ones will be written as time goes along.
I hope you enjoy my blog! Check back because I will try to update it as often as possible.
Besitos, B.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
